A new pizzeria is opening in the Blackland neighborhood this spring, from the co-founders of nearby cafe Thunderbird Coffee. Brothers Ryan and Wade McElroy will open Love Supreme on 2805 Manor Road on Wednesday, April 28 for dine-in, with takeout services coming at a later date.
There are two styles of pies on deck at Love Supreme, courtesy of executive chef Russell Victorioso, who is from Los Angeles. First, there are the round 13-inch pies that are made in a manner described as “hybrid Neapolitan/New York-style,” with crispy bottom crusts (the New York part) and charred edge crusts (the Neapolitan part).
Victorioso further explains it: “I love the pronounced, puffy cornicione [Ed. note: a term describing the just-slightly-raised crust around a circular pie] with a little chew to it from Neapolitan pizzas, but with a crispy enough bottom to hold a fold like New York-style.”
Then there are square pies with pan-style crusts. “I combined elements of Sicilian and Detroit pizza,” explains Victorioso, which will be baked in rectangular steel pans. It’ll have a “crispy cheese crust with a crispy bottom that is light, airy, with a little chew to it,” as he describes.
Other dishes include chicken wings, salads, and assorted appetizers. Drinks-wise, the restaurant will serve draft beers, wines with an emphasis on natural options, cocktails, and boozy slushies. There are indoor and outdoor dining areas with an alfresco bar.
Love Supreme has major Los Angeles ties, which makes sense, seeing as Wade McElroy also owns several restaurants in the California city: California-Mediterranean restaurant Cafe Birdie (which is temporarily closed), Filipino restaurant Ma’am Sir (which permanently closed last summer), and barbecue restaurant Horse Thief.
Chef Victorioso had been the executive chef of Cafe Birdie, and previously worked under Los Angeles chefs such as Evan Funke (Italian restaurant Felix) and Quinn Hatfield (who had co-run iconic fine dining restaurant Hatfield’s, which closed in 2014). Love Supreme’s general manager is Paulina Cline, who had worked at Los Angeles restaurants such as Baco Mercat (which closed last summer) and Bar Amá.
The brothers chose the name based on the John Coltrane album A Love Supreme. “Pizza and music have always been a source of joy and community in our family,” explains Ryan and Wade via email. “Choosing the name of an all-time great jazz album that also echoes supreme pizza, one of our favorites, seemed like a natural fit.”
Love Supreme is taking over the space that had belonged to retro bar 8 Track, which opened in July 2018 and closed sometime late last year. That means it has a giant 3,000-square-foot patio with an outdoor bar.
The McElroys opened the first Thunderbird Coffee in 2007 on Manor Road. Ryan McElroy is also the co-owner of Cherrywood fast-casual shop Bird Bird Biscuit, along with co-owner and chef Brian Batch. They’re turning the West Koenig location of Thunderbird into a second Bird Bird Biscuit. It had been aiming to open early this year, but it’s still under construction.
Love Supreme will initially be open Wednesday through Sunday from 4 to 10 p.m., though hours will expand soon.
Update, April 19: This article has been updated with the opening date for Love Supreme