Statesman critic Matthew Odam wrote a short review of Mum Foods Deli this week, and found the meats perfected at the farmer’s market used in excellent new creations. The review was likely abbreviated as Odam has noted he does not review restaurants for two months after they open, and Mum opened in mid-April.
Odam proclaimed that Mum is making “some of the best new sandwiches in town.” He loved the pastrami, with a mix of fatty and lean (as recommended by Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn,) and appreciated the “sour bite” of sourdough bread from forthcoming Swedish Hill Bakery (he noted “Mum” is the name of the Mum’s sourdough starter).
Odam also enjoyed Mum’s plate of pickles with “electric” green beans, and the pimento cheese sandwich with “brilliant” layering:
The super wet pimento cheese was stacked with a juicy bright red tomato beautiful enough to be photographed, some dark greens that carried a perfumed florality and yellow discs of turmeric-spiced pickled radish that offered a snappy counter-textural component to the creaminess of the cheese blend.
Odam concluded the restaurant “does a lot with the little they have.”