clock menu more-arrow no yes mobile

Filed under:

Statesman Critic Lauds the Food But Bemoans Small Pour Sizes at Aviary Wine & Kitchen

Austin Monthly enjoyed an Instagram-free meal at Otherside Deli

Wine at Aviary Wine & Kitchen
Wine at Aviary Wine & Kitchen
Aviary Wine & Kitchen/Facebook

Statesman critic Mathew Odam reviewed South Lamar spot Aviary Wine & Kitchen this week, and had mostly positive things to say about the revamped wine restaurant. While Odam has stated that he usually waited at least two months to visit a restaurant for a review, his article was published barely two months after relatively new chef Andre Molina took over the kitchen in February after original chef Thomas Calhoun left. (Molina came to Aviary via Italian restaurant Intero, which Odam had high praise for.)

Odam stayed positive when describing the “flavorful and artful plates” (“not a bacon-wrapped date, bowl of mussels or slider in sight”) and was impressed at the output from the “tiny two-man kitchen,” like with:

A bittersweet almond mole colors a seared cauliflower steak and accompanying florets with its velvety embrace ($8), tendrils of cilantro adding to the Mexican appeal; and a buttery root vegetable pave, balanced with the tingle of mustard seeds and bitter microgreens, separates like an accordion at the press of the fork ($9).

Odam described a dish of oyster mushrooms and prosciutto that “hit you in the comfort-food pleasure centers.” Broccoli with cheddar cheese foam was the lone complaint, described as “steamed mush.”

While Odam called the wine list “exciting,” he was turned off by skimpy pours when ordering by the glass (a standard pour of wine is between 5 and 6 ounces). Overall, he gave the restaurant a rating of 7.5 out of 10.

Austin Monthly writer Megan Kimble reviewed Otherside Deli this week, and appreciated the restaurant’s simplicity. Though noting the deli often sells out of pastrami and corned beef, she was able to snag a couple of sandwiches:

The Otherside sandwich was perfect in composition, spilling with tender pastrami balanced by crispy cold coleslaw and a drizzle of Russian dressing, all enclosed within two slices of rye bread. We also loved the cheesesteak, full of fresh-sliced ribeye grilled with onions and peppers and smothered in American cheese.

Kimble noted that the restaurant’s unassuming interior was a welcome sight.

ON THE BLOGS: A Taste of Koko stopped by the revamped Takoba bar Barzón and named the pork pozole soup a favorite. South Austin Foodie updated her review of Fat Dragon and found a renewed love for dumplings.

Otherside Deli

1104 West 34th Street, , TX 78705 (512) 407-9702 Visit Website

Aviary Wine & Kitchen

2110 South Lamar Boulevard, , TX 78704 (512) 916-4445 Visit Website

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater Austin newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world