Austin Monthly critic Jolène Bouchon praised Korean-American restaurant Oseyo in a short review this week. This is in direct contrast to Statesman critic Matthew Odam’s findings published last week, which slammed many dishes and rated the restaurant a 6 out of 10.
Bouchon’s review devotes more real estate to Oseyo’s story and decor (“inviting”) than the food, which only gets one paragraph halfway through the review:
The food is uniformly good, particularly the tender bulgogi, grilled ribeye that’s shaved paper thin and flavored with a garlicky marinade that marries the saltiness of soy sauce with the sweetness of Asian pear.
Bouchon also called the jjin mandu (steamed dumplings) a “bite of perfection” and enjoyed the addition of tofu to the kimchi jigae (a spicy pork belly stew). She did call out the kalbi (short ribs) as the lone misstep, which were cut thickly and thus were chewy.
Bouchon briefly praised the “dynamite” cocktail program, and was pleased to find Korean ingredients included (again, in contrast to Odam’s review, where he lamented the lack of the Korean liquor soju).
Like Odam, Bouchon found Oseyo’s flavors to be “subdued,” but acknowledged that since the recipes came from owner Lynn Miller’s mother, it was “authentic to her own unique experience.”