‘Texas Monthly’ Barbecue Editor Enjoys Loro’s Untraditional Take on Smoked Meats

Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn published his review of Asian smokehouse Loro this week, and called the variety of barbecue “stunning.” The assessment, while favorable, echoed Statesman critic Matthew Odam’s statements that those seeking a combination of Franklin Barbecue and Uchi from Loro partners Aaron Franklin and Tyson Cole will be disappointed.

Vaughn also noted that barbecue purists may be wary, adding that “for the open-minded, there’s great barbecue to be had.” Vaughn called the brisket “incredible,” and certainly recognizable as stemming from Franklin’s, though wished the herbs had come in smaller pieces.

Regarding the happy hour burger, Vaughn agreed with Odam that it’s better off without the addition of brisket:

The juicy patty takes on the oak flavor from the grill. I loved the flavor, and for the first time in my life, I wished they’d let it shine without the extra scoop of chopped brisket. The smoky beef works better on its own in the brisket sandwich, which comes with a hefty dose of spicy papaya salad. If you like pickles, pickled jalapeños, and onions on your brisket sandwich, the acid and crunch of the papaya salad will feel right at home.

Outside of Loro’s beef, Vaughn loved the “flaky filet” of the smoked salmon, especially with sweet and acidic broth, as well as the “consistently great” bavette steak. There was no mention of the service problems touched on in practically every other review.

Overall, Vaughn said he “enjoy[ed] sampling this new vein of Texas barbecue.”

ON THE BLOGS: The Honest Truth had a pleasant experience at Korea House Austin, calling the doenjang jigae stew “perfect on a rainy day;” Big Bite Out had a low-key date night at Fabi + Rosi, and advised “don’t skip the krack pie.”

• Loro Experiments With a New Vein of Texas Barbecue, Offering Unusual Takes on Smoked Meats [Texas Monthly]
• All Coverage of Loro [EATX]