Austin Monthly Critic Is Underwhelmed by Asian Smokehouse Loro

Austin Monthly critic Jolène M. Bouchon had admittedly high expectations for Loro, but found the restaurant fell flat. Putting it bluntly, she explained: “I went in expecting to be wowed” by the restaurant from Uchi’s Tyson Cole and Franklin Barbecue’s Aaron Franklin, which opened in April. She continued, “I wasn’t.”

Bouchon did have positive things to say about the well-designed space, and some of the food items, like the bavette steak which “just melts” and the “super-crisp” chicken karaage, and, of course, praised the brisket:

[R]ichly smoked and so tender and moist that it seems held together by sheer power of will. It’s dressed with a chile gastrique that’s unobtrusive enough to let the brisket shine while still being suggestive of Far East flavors, such as Vietnam’s nuoc cham.

However, Bouchon “had much milder feelings” towards other dishes, particularly the salmon served in a too-sweet broth and a salad that was not refined. She was disappointed that the menu was somewhat lacking in the characteristics of “smokehouse” and “Asian.” She also called the cocktails “petite and weak.”

Another problem was that the outside patio was overrun with flies. Service-wise, she noted that lines and seating can be frustrating when the restaurant is busy, but that staff generally kept things running smoothly. Overall, she hopes the team “plants a firmer stake in their concept.”

Chronicle critic Jessi Cape visited the new location of Home Slice Pizza after finding the alt-weekly paper has never reviewed the original pizzeria. The larger, second location opened up in North Loop in mid-May. She is clearly a fan of the New York-style slices, already, and was taken by the Sicilian-style pies:

Cooked in a deep steel pan, it’s a thick and impressive beast, with a billowy interior and a crispy golden exterior

Cape also liked the new Buffalo chicken wings, noting that the smaller size was due to high-quality chickens. She noted they were “super crispy” with a sauce “spicy enough to make you sweat,” which paired well with the real blue cheese dressing. A chicken parmesan club sandwich was “just fine,” but the Caesar and the calzone got rave reviews.

Morever, Cape was impressed by the service, particularly a bartender who offered a plate of floured dough for her child to play with. Cape declared Home Slice North Loop as one of her new favorite places to eat pizza.

ON THE BLOGS: Her Modern Kitchen loved the plating and flavors at The Brewer’s Table, calling “each presentation a pure work of art;” So Much Life Blog called the “moist, juicy” burger at Luke’s Inside Out one of her favorites.

• Restaurant Review: Loro [Austin Monthly]
• All Coverage of Loro [EATX]
• Restaurant Review: Home Slice Pizza’s New Location as Great as the Original [Chronicle]
• All Coverage of North Loop Homeslice Pizza [EATX]