Chronicle critic Jessi Cape reviewed masa-focused Suerte this week, joining the Statesman and Texas Monthly in singing the Mexican restaurant’s praises. She said that the restaurant “is mastering the art of elevated simplicity.”
Cape called the space “lovely and bright and filled with curated treasures,” from the custom front door with a unique lock to the “trippy” wallpaper in the bathroom. However, as others have noted, she warns that the space is very loud.
The most “show-stopping” dish was the first one Cape tried: the sweet corn esquites.
Their twist on Mexican street corn salad, or off-the-cob elotes, is served piping hot in a custom-blown glass filled with grilled sweet corn, foamed fontina cheese, pulpy lime bits, and crispy heirloom corn tortillas crafted from house-made masa.
Cape also praised the striped bass ceviche, beet tostada, suadero tacos with “tender confit brisket,” mole carrots, and goat barbacoa, though she claimed that after this meal she had to be rolled out of the restaurant and had leftovers for two days. One rare low point was the bland aguachiles, but this visit also included an impressive chicken tamal and duck egg flan.
Cape enjoyed the mezcal-based cocktails and described the happy hour as “magical.” She also said the service was “impeccable,” and highly suggests a visit.