One of the Best New Restaurants in America Is Suerte

Eater’s best new restaurants list for 2018 is here, courtesy of roving restaurant critic Bill Addison, who spent months traveling across America. Austin is represented on the list with Suerte, the Mexican restaurant from executive chef Fermín Nuñez and owner Sam Hellman-Mass (who is an Odd Duck founding partner), which opened in March.

Addison was taken by Suerte’s passion for masa, which is house-ground and nixtamalized. He appreciated the multitude of ways masa can be used, from rich tlacoyos to crisp tostadas. The critic was particularly a fan of the suadero tacos:

If the Texas sun had a fragrance, it would smell like the small, speckled tortillas that cradle confit brisket tacos with ‘black magic oil’ (made from sesame and smoked morita chiles) and come alongside grilled fish with bacon salsa or a whopping goat shoulder cooked barbacoa-style.

Likewise, most Austin restaurant critics have been raving about Suerte. Chronicle’s Jessi Cape described the restaurant as “mastering the art of elevated simplicity.” Statesman critic Matthew Odam awarded the restaurant his highest rating in recent months: 9.5 out of 10.

Eater’s best new restaurants list includes 17 other restaurants across the country, including Houston’s Theodore Rex from chef Justin Yu and Carnitas Lonja in San Antonio

• All Coverage of Suerte [EATX]