Statesman critic Matthew Odam is the latest to review masa-focused Mexican restaurant Suerte. Echoing the praise from Texas Monthly, Odam rated the restaurant a 9.5 out of 10 points — his highest in recent months.
Odam started by describing the masa as having “a loamy sweetness that balances sun and earth” and was impressed by the variety in texture across the “Mexican-food-bloggy-titled ‘Vitamin T’ section of the menu.”
Odam saved top praise for Suerte’s brisket tacos:
You may be able to replicate the black magic oil if you find the right balance of black sesame oil, garlic and morita chile, but I doubt you can make small, supple red corn tortillas like those at Suerte, or summon the alchemical powers to abracadabra tender confit brisket elevated gently with the citrus kiss of avocado. Delivered four to a plate ($15), the brisket tacos with the toasty sauce are some of the best I’ve ever eaten in Austin.
He also enjoyed exploring the mezcal cocktails and the smaller portions of the menu, like “a funky and wonderful fontina cheese play on Mexican street corn” and “sweet snapper awash in leche de tigre and chile mayo.”
Odam briefly laid out his disappointments: the loud volume, one instance of indifferent service, and the carne asada that lacked enough fat, though he noted he loved the “vinegary tomato broth” so much that “disappointment barely registered.”
Overall, Suerte’s authentic character and excellent food led Odam to name it “one of the best restaurants in the city.”
Megan Kimble of Austin Monthly noted “good things are often hidden in strip malls” after stopping into Uzbek restaurant Uzeats. She called the restaurant “clean and basic,” before diving into the culinary options.
Kimble started with homemade hummus and perfectly tart pomegranate juice before moving to the grilled lamb shashlik and a creamy rice entree. She called the spicy red sauce accompanying the lamb the “perfect complement,” but the dish’s steamed vegetables were “pretty sad.” However, the creamy rice was another story:
The creamy rice — a simple-sounding dish made with mushroom, spinach, onion, cheese, walnuts, and half-and-half — was the surprise standout. The buttery risotto-like texture was spot-on, but it was the seasoning, with subtle black pepper heat, that made the dish disappear.
ON THE BLOGS: Chekmark Eats loved the brunch options, choco taco, and hot brick chicken blue plate special at Holy Roller; ATX Eats and Treats liked the cocktails and the “fresh, light, and unique dishes” at Lotus + Cleaver, like sweet and sour sesame chicken and scallion and egg fried rice.
- New Austin Mexican restaurant Suerte proves you don’t need luck when you’re this good [Austin-American Statesman]
- All Coverage of Suerte [EATX]
- Restaurant Review: Uzeat [Austin Monthly]
- All Coverage of Uzeat [EATX]