East Austin Mexican restaurant Suerte was praised in the New York Times this week, after a visit from Dan Saltzstein, the editorial director for special projects at the newspaper. The review was apparently based on a visit in the summer, only a few months after the restaurant opened in March, but his article was quite positive.
Saltzstein seemed to approve of the focus on masa, noting that the “various iterations of masa were indeed delicious, both earthy and sweet.” He had particular praise for the suadero tacos, made with “meltingly soft confit brisket,” avocado salsa cruda, and black magic oil. While he deemed the quesadilla del tule (which is no longer on the menu) a “taste-muddle,” but called the carnitas tlacoyo “pleasantly soft.”
Beyond the “vitamin T” portion of the menu, Saltzstein’s praise continued:
From “Frio & Raw,” we tried the bright and spicy aguachile, with royal red prawns in a cascadel chile broth, topped with a dark, crunchy cracker (made from masa, of course). Out of “Specialties” we sampled a wildly flavorful barbacoa of goat ribs, served with two types of salsa, housemade queso fresco and a basket of tender tortillas.
Saltzstein also appreciated the opportunity to try less common spirits like sotol, raicilla, and bacanora (and the fact that each was labeled).
Overall, Saltzstein was complimentary, saying, “Not everything will be a winner, but [...] you’ll have an enjoyable meal.”
This isn’t the first time the New York Times flew into Austin for a restaurant review. The paper’s critic Pete Wells decided to hit up the then-eight-year-old barbecue joint Franklin Barbecue, awarding the restaurant two stars.