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Bonhomie Impresses Statesman With Elevated Hash Browns

The "Waffle House meets French bistro" mash-up makes sense to the critic

Robert J. Lerma/EATX
Nadia Chaudhury is the editor of Eater Austin covering food and pop culture, as well as a photographer, writer, and frequent panel moderator and podcast guest.

Statesman critic Matthew Odam visited Bonhomie, chef Philip Speer’s take on the diner with American and French influences, and he liked what he saw and ate. He appreciated Speer’s tagline description for the Burnet Road restaurant: Waffle House and French bistro, especially seen with the array of pomme rosti, a higher-end take on the chain's hash browns:

You aren’t worried about the prep work of the latticed potatoes, their slight chew balancing the creaminess, when you’re digging into toppings like a decadent primal wobble of seared and scored foie gras engulfed in a pool of cognac gravy with a sidecar of a perfectly poached egg ($19).

Other standout dishes include the Lyonnaise salad, the cheeseburger, and French dip croissant. Odam sees Bonhomie as the perfect vehicle for Speer to showcase the "high-low mix that blends time-earned talent with a baseline of humility." He pointed to the banana split, where caramelized bananas and vanilla ice cream are paired with profiteroles, best embodies the spirit of what Bonhomie is, really, comfort taken to a (slightly) higher degree.

THE BLOGS — The Hungry Chronicles enjoyed a morning meal from My Name Is Joe Coffee Co.

Bonhomie [Closed]

5350 Burnet Road, Austin, Texas 78756 Visit Website