The Chronicle’s Brandon Watson didn't feel the sizzle at La Corsha Hospitality Group’s ambitious Boiler Nine Bar + Grill, dedicated to wood-fire fare, views, and booze. The long-awaited restaurant-slash-deck-bar-slash-lounge in the retrofitted Seaholm Power Plant proved to be a let down from the expansive cold-feel of the space to "a service staff and a kitchen stretched thin".
This is the brainchild of the same group that brought us Second Bar + Kitchen so there are wins, of course. Executive chef Jason Stude’s imaginative use of fire defines the menu, "evok[ing] the steakhouse without any of the cheap tricks" as seen with the entrees:
The Akaushi sirloin ($28) has all the heartiness of a traditional dinner, but the carrots are moussed, the sautéed mushrooms are oyster, and the reduction is agrodolce. Your dad won't be offended, especially if you top the meal off with a berry cobbler ($8), more of a crumble really, that is one sparkler short of being an Independence Day parade.
Then it’s onto the other two portions of the restaurant. First, the subterranean The Boiler Room cocktail lounge delivers, thanks to the ‘70s-inspired cocktails that live up to beverage and bar director Jason Stevens’ "trademark booziness."
Watson then pointed to the Deck Nine Observatory Bar as "the least successfully executed" of the three sections, explaining that, despite the expansive view from the rooftop, the rest of the experience—namely the service and execution—falls flat. His only recommendations? The standout tempeh sandwich and fries tossed in Grana Padano and rosemary, which are also on the lunch menu at Boiler Nine. Get it there instead.
After acknowledging that Boiler’s refinements are sure to come with time, Watson’s reproachful message for the group was to keep Second Bar’s success in mind.
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