The Chronicle’s Brandon Watson discovered unexpected luxury in unpretentious L'Oca d'Oro ("The Golden Goose"). In a city where the number of Italian restaurants is on a seemingly upward and endless trajectory, the critic found several reasons to make a stop at Mueller’s newcomer. A posh dining space wasn’t one of them, and that’s a good thing. Watson claims,
If the moulted restaurant flock of the last few years is any indication, maybe it's better that L'oca is focusing less on sourcing wallpaper than preparing the food.
The restaurant’s menu centers on fresh, wood-grilled entrées and housemade pastas, breads, and liqueurs. And sharing is made easy with family-style feasts for two to four people. Executive chef Fiore Tedesco and general manager Adam Orman, the same team behind the pop-up supper club series, bring years of experience with them, and it shows.
The common theme amongst all the dishes is that the punchy distilled flavors are achieved by both carefully selected local ingredients and intensive technique, though none of those things are advertised. To borrow from Coco Chanel, "Luxury must be comfortable." L'Oca d'Oro may not be the flashiest addition to Austin dining, but it fits like a handcrafted pair of Italian leather loafers.
More good news: Watson also pointed out the beverage menu is small but affordable. Splurging on wine will run you between $70 to $80.
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