At Lima Criolla, Odam Finds More Hits Than Misses

Statesman's Matthew Odam is back at it with a review of Lima Criolla’s new home within the Linc. It still has the same food-court feel, but an expanded menu. Along with the signature dish, the rest of the fare spanned multi-cultural influences from Spain to France, with a little Texas thrown in:

Lima Criolla finds ways to make the expected sing, as with a tangy escabeche de pollo ($9) brightened with vinegar and the rich and lush braised pork and peanut pop of carapulcra ($10). They are the kind of comforting, flavorful and honest dishes that show Lima Criolla at its best.

Aside from some misses, like tough steak, there were other winners, like the grilled beef hearts, and a plethora of potato and pepper dishes.

Chronicle’s Brandon Watson headed inside the Shopper Mart on Cedar Avenue for Dilly Deli. There, he gladly found "simple, unpretentious American cuisine" with a certain agelessness. Lunch-time sandwiches are strong (though the bread could be better), with solid reubens and smoked chicken salad. For dinner, there are two overwhelming salty winners:

he chicken-fried steak ($10.75) and fried chicken ($9) are can't-miss, though. Too many places in town skip the salt in their fried foods, as if the lack of sodium will somehow make it more healthy. Dilly Deli's salt isn't overwhelming, but it is there and it is proper. That complements chicken that retains all of its juice and steak that falls apart at the slightest abrasion.

THE BLOGS — Fed Man Walking burgered up at JW Marriott's Corner, Foodie is the New Forty popped into supper club De La Terre, Austinot checked out former-Crave, now-Revival Public House, and Fearless Captivations named her favorite Via 313 combinations.