The Chronicle’s Brandon Watson visits Clarksville boozy dessert haven Nightcap and finds it fun, convivial, and in stark contrast to the macho culture of upscale bars. Of the nostalgia-driven pastry menu, he finds little to criticize:
The blue ribbon goes to Rocky Road ($11), a superlative vegan dish that avoids the common pratfall of substituting too much sugar for dairy. Coffee + Donut ($10) is a close second in the race. Using crispy ham in a dessert is almost commonplace now, but the cardamom cream used with the ricotta beignets prunes any boredom.
He also enjoys the meat dishes and finds the vegetable offerings lacking cohesion, but reassures those lacking a sweet tooth that there is plenty on offer for them:
Several of the drinks have a savory element anyway, like the Paloma-esque Jalapeño Business; the Radish Me, Baby made with horseradish vodka; or the aforementioned I Wish You Would Cucumber, made with assertively herbal Uncle Val's gin. Rye You No Call Still shares much with the Old Fashioned, but strawberry gives it a springly sippability, as it does in the Don't Be Bitter, a take on the Negroni.