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Barley Swine Works Chronicle's Palate, Odam Finds Treasures in The Hollow

Where the critics ate this week

Barley Swine
Barley Swine
Robert J. Lerma/EATX

The Chronicle's Melody Fury visited the rebooted Barley Swine and finds the newly expanded restaurant in need of some new tricks. She had high hopes for the eleven-course tasting menu and, while she enjoyed the first three courses, including shiitake mushroom ravioli that "wrapped [her] up in a blissful blanket," the next several dishes were a bit formulaic.

The hay-roasted carrots' sweetness was overshadowed by the mixture of seeds and the (tart in nature) chèvre. The nicely poached red snapper rested on a pool of koji butter that also had a hint of acid, alongside roasted brussels sprouts, Marcona almonds, and pickled radish. Sure, both dishes were cohesive on their own, but they lacked diversity in the grand scheme. [...] Frankly, my palate was exhausted by the omnipresent acidity.

She had better luck with the "swine time" happy hour, singling out the roasted oyster mushroom and coffee-marinated egg as particularly good dishes.

The Statesman's Matthew Odam trekked up to Georgetown to visit The Hollow, an aspirational chef-driven concept on the town's main square. He was pleasantly surprised to find "bright and beautiful" dishes in a space suffused with "folksy charm."

One of those Instagram-worthy dishes was a first course of beet-cured redfish crudo blushed like a smoke ring at its edges and roused with ginger and citrus vinaigrette. The curing process speaks to Hilbert’s thoughtful approach to dishes, like a seared and roasted entrée of lamb tossed in leek ash and rosemary and served with a robust homemade chermoula brimming with North African spices.

The desserts, however, were "anticlimactic."

THE BLOGS — Funnily enough, A Time to Kale loves the kale salads at Vinaigrette, while Fed Man Walking checked out the burgers from Henri's and Justine's.

The Hollow

708 S Austin Ave, Georgetown, TX 78626, USA

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