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Chronicle Finds Weird Austin DNA at Royal Jelly

No review from Odam this week.

Royal Jelly
Royal Jelly
Royal Jelly/Official

The Chronicle's Brandon Watson pops into the Highland neighborhood honeycomb to review under-the-radar Royal Jelly. The bar-restaurant hybrid is helmed by Dominic Mauro and erstwhile Swift's Attic chef Matthew Walker. Watson devotes the first half of the review to the decor, diagnosing an identity crisis thanks to the mashup of stools, settees, and low tables. The food, on the other hand, transcends typical bar fare, going above and beyond the call to just soak up booze.

The concept remains the same: small plates influenced by world cuisine. Adventurous, but accessible. [...] Hearty goat meatballs ($8) are served with creamy fried polenta squares and a punchy arrabbiata. A Cubano sandwich ($9.50), made with sliced bread instead of the traditional baguette, counters the fat of pork belly with a nutty brown butter and a mustard bracing enough to stand up to hops.

The kitchen stumbles, however, when it comes to vegetarian fare. Avocado hummus is a winner, according to Watson, while vegan chorizo sinks the barbecue pork buns.

THE BLOGS — South Austin Foodie brunches at VOX Table, Forks Up does date night at Hopfields, and Fed Man Walking launches another gut-busting series called 100 Austin Burgers.

Royal Jelly

704 W St Johns Avenue, , TX 78752 (512) 765-4816 Visit Website

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