Cane Rosso’s Neapolitan Pizzas Are the Real Deal for Statesman

Statesman critic Matthew Odam discovered authentic wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas with tantalizing toppings at Cane Rosso pizzeria. The Dallas chain started slinging pizzas in Sunset Valley this past July in the space previously occupied by St. Philip’s Pizza Parlor.

Odam goes on to praise the flavor-packed toppings and combinations. Although the more than 20 options on the menu — some with only slight variations — can cause confusion, Odam is quick to highlight the menus’ strengths:

The gentle sweetness and tempered acidity of San Marzano tomatoes, blended to a Goldilocks-approved consistency lingering between too thick and too watery, serve as the base for more than half of the pizzas, like the Ella ($14), which is topped with cooling mozzarella and basil and the fiery tingle of hot soppressata curled at the edges by the fire.

Other favorites include the Delia (spicy bacon marmalade, roasted grape tomatoes, arugula, and housemade mozzarella), the Prosciutto E Rucola (a white pie with prosciutto crudo and arugula with a lemon dressing), and the Vegetale. A final caveat from Odam:

With such impressive, and very specific, pizzas, the generic appetizers and pasta dishes feel like a distraction, if not a downright undercutting of Cane Rosso’s strengths.

Though maybe that’s not such a problem. After all, you’ll want to save room for the desserts including a s'mores calzone, tiramisu, and Italian doughnuts. Plus, Cow Tipping Creamery is scooping up sweets next door.

Chronicle’s Brandon Watson found paleo-friendly Picnik a boon for special diets of all sorts. The trailer/shipping container on South Lamar expanded with a brick and mortar when it brought its bone broth, butter coffee, pastries, and more to Fork & Taco’s closed spot on Burnet Road. The new space allows for a dinner service and made-to-order hot dishes.

The restaurant caters to various diets, from paleo, vegans, gluten-free, Whole 30, and more. Looking for guidance on what to order? Watson pointed out that simple is best. The harvest hash, fried brussels sprouts, beef stew, chicken tenders with a honey mustard aïoli, the salads, breakfast tacos, and coffees scored high. Of the pastries, Watson said:

And the pastries taste like they give no consideration to health whatsoever – especially the blondie made with coconut sugar and almond meal. Tasty alone, it especially sung in the aforementioned ice cream sandwich ($6.95) made with Dolce Neve vanilla gelato.

The kitchen does stumble with more complicated entrées such as the eggplant rollatini, bulgogi lettuce wraps, and catch of the day. That said, Watson is hopeful the kitchen can address those issues in time.

THE BLOGS — A Taste of Koko spotlighted picks for the nine best restaurants at Domain Northside, Dine with Shayda checked out Allandale’s newest cafe The Factory (tip: try the house-made pop tarts), The Austinot previewed newcomer St. Elmo Brewing Co and its “rock solid beer”, and Fed Man Walking got a first look at James Beard Award nominee Andrew Weissman’s newest restaurant in San Antonio.

Last week’s Week in Review was delayed due to the holiday weekend.

• Review: Thin pies leave a big impression at Cane Rosso [Statesman]
• Review: Picnik [Chronicle]