For The Chronicle this week, Brandon Watson visits new Airport Boulevard casual dining destination Sala & Betty. Former Aquarelle chef Teresa Wilson created an understated New American menu both for sit down dining and drive thru. On the takeout version:
The pork shoulder was perfectly cooked, juicy without the slick of fat. The rotisserie chicken was nicely roasted too, although we would have liked a little crisp in the skin. Those were accompanied by green beans tossed in garlic, thickly cut fries, tomato stewed potatoes, and a grilled and herbed squash medley. The beans and squash were textbook, if needing acid and salt, and the fries' limpness didn't detract from the taste, but the potato dish was odd. The combination of spuds and tomatoes is classic, but here the tomato seemed to be used more as a food dye than a flavor profile. It yearned for more indulgence.
In lieu of a review this week, Matthew Odam profiles Michael Fojtasek and Grae Nonas of Olamaie, who were recently named James Beard semi-finalists and two of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs. Good news for fans of the restaurant: lunch service is coming, and the biscuits aren't going anywhere.