Matthew Odam visits the new Wells Branch location of Garbo's for The Statesman this week. The strip mall restaurant seriously classes up the northern suburbs, and while the kitchen struggles with consistency, the lobster rolls are on point. On another sandwich offering:
In addition to appetizers like a creamy, smoked fish dip dotted with celery's snap, the lunch menu includes a roster of sandwiches like a plump fried redfish ($12) with a delicate coating served on a sweet bun with rich aioli and cherry tomatoes. The menu promised pancetta. I found little. A shame, as the bland sandwich needed the pork's salty influence. A soft mash of sea and minerality sandwiched between griddled bread, the crab and egg melt ($16) also lacked complexity and would have benefited from the elevating effects of acid.
Brandon Watson at The Chronicle praises the mix of fast casual layout and complex flavors at Chi'Lantro on South Lamar. The focus on housemade ingredients and friendly service elevate the restaurant above its peers according to the critic. On the service:
Chi'Lantro is technically fast casual, but an evolution of that hollow industry term. There's a depth of flavor in most of the dishes that can only come from time. Even at peak times, one can get in and out with lightning speed, but that's where comparisons to places like Chipotle end. First, there's craft beer on tap and a decent wine selection. And the staff is inordinately friendly - Hare Krishnas in the airport friendly. One would be hard-pressed to find another restaurant in this category that offers you dessert or another Topo Chico as they clear your table.
THE BLOGS: Mike Sutter continues his quest to become part-man, part-taco. One of this week's notable highlights is Tortilleria Rio Grande .