It’s clear that The Chronicle’s Virginia B. Wood fell in love with Launderette with her review this week. She gushed over the kitchen’s ability to build on top of taste profiles throughout the menu. Of particular note were the crab toast, branzino, and array of seasonal ice creams. The real winners, though, were the vegetables:
The sticky brussels sprouts ($9) are cooked with an apple-bacon marmalade and served with almonds and chunks of fresh apple under a snowy cloud of grated pecorino cheese. Stir it all up for the full interplay of the tangy, acidic, sweet, and salty flavor elements popping in this dish and you won't be able to stop eating it. The cauliflower gratin ($9), on the other hand, is a study in richness and subtlety, the still-toothsome vegetable paired with melted Gruyère under a crown of toasted garlic crumbs.