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The Chronicle Quibbles With The Peached Tortilla's Southern-Asian Fusion

Overall, critic Brandon Watson enjoys the food truck's new brick and mortar.

The Peached Tortilla
The Peached Tortilla
Robert J. Lerma/EATX

For Austin's only restaurant review this week, The Chronicle visits The Peached Tortilla, a new restaurant from the popular food truck. Brandon Watson doesn't find adequate Southern in their Southern-Asian fusion, but enjoys much of what he tries:

Unagi goes low country in the Blistered Catfish Bowl ($12), swapping the traditional eel. Clever conceit aside, it still wanted something more. The 45-minute egg somewhat blunted the barbecue, but the Japanese pickles, while delicious, only reinforced the sweet. On white rice, that might have struck the right balance, but the slightly caramelized charred cabbage was far from a plain base.

But that was the only (slight) misstep. The Hanger Steak Ssam ($19) gave a new coat of paint to the lettuce wrap, the perfectly cooked beef given zip by kimchi. Tres Cauliflower ($11) grilled, pureed, and pickled the vegetable before adding nori butter. It's a standout version of a culinary cliche that reminds why brassicas have become so ubiquitous.

THE BLOGS: Most of Austin's food bloggers are busily rolling out their portion of the city guide. Fed Man Walking's relentless taco quest stops at Cisco's, and The Smoking Ho digs the boudin though not much else at Willie's.

The Peached Tortilla

5520 Burnet Road, , TX 78756 (512) 330-4439 Visit Website

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