Virginia Wood reviews modern Southern restaurant Fixe for The Chronicle this week, where she wishes the kitchen would be less modern and more Southern. The service and space impress, as does much of the food, but Wood is also weary of flourishes. On the biscuits:
I was left with the suspicion that the pristine copy of Edna Lewis' In Pursuit of Flavor displayed on the shelf in front of the open kitchen was just a prop and there's a food-stained copy of Modernist Cuisine behind the line. Be sure to start your dinner with the biscuits ($6 for 3) that are baked to order and arrive at the table piping hot and impossibly fragrant. Be advised, however, that the preserves listed on the menu aren't preserves at all, but a sour, unspreadable berry compote that diminishes rather than enhances these buttery, golden examples of Southern baking artistry. The same goes for the blob of spicy n'duja that seems to have wandered in from a pizza joint. Better all around to request the honey and butter suggested by our server, Lindsay.
Critic Brandon Watson also files a "Food Fight" between East Side King's Liberty and Cheer Up Charlie's locations, with the classic Liberty location coming out on top.
THE BLOGS: Oh hey, Mike Sutter is still writing about tacos on Fed Man Walking. The latest: chicarron at Pueblo Viejo.