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Grain-obsessed Emmer & Rye, the impending New American restaurant on Rainey Street, is adding something different to its menu: New American dim sum. Kevin Fink, owner and executive chef, sat down with Eater to explain exactly how the service will work. The reason he decided to offer it in the first place is because "it’s about creating this really hospitable experience for people," Fink explained.
As opposed to traditional dim sum, Emmer’s will come out in four waves, with different dishes offered each time. Guests can order from the regular dining menu, and pick and choose from the dim sum options, of which there will be 12 all together on opening day. All dishes will change as the season and locally-sourced produce evolve throughout the year. Dim sum will be served from wooden trays draped around servers’ necks. Chefs will also be able to serve their creations and explain their inspiration to the diners.
Dim sum is about creating this really hospitable experience for people
The first two waves will consist of dishes that "every table should have," Fink said. Fink describes the first wave as "a little bit lighter" with "more impactful dishes." One item that he’s really excited about is the roasted cauliflower made with black butter infused with bitter flowers, all topped with lardo. Then there’s the cold fermented corn chowder, which will include fresh corn, too, buttermilk, Gulf oyster, dried chiles, micro arugula, and marigold. The third and fourth will have more "inspiring" items.
There’s even a separate brunch dim sum menu, with more dessert items than during the week, which are available as ordered items. Pastry chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph has been working on a plum tart with chestnut flour, among other sweets.
The six different pricing levels will range from $4 for personal plates to $16 for special items. Something the restaurant is working for the latter is a fish dish, taking advantage of chef de cuisine Page Pressley’s Uchi background. Dim sum will be available in the main dining room only on Tuesday and Wednesday from 5:30 to 10 p.m., Thursday through Saturday from 5:30 to 11 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Emmer & Rye is set to open later this month.
