Statesman critic Matthew Odam visits South Congress newcomer Little Barrel & Brown this week, where he encounters inconsistent dishes and lots of noise. On the travails of "Mutt Man:"
Little Barrel and Brown was only about 25 percent full, but the noise of a dozen happy hour revelers flooded the space. Newly arrived diners at the handsome button-leather banquettes perched beneath filament light fixtures added to the cacophonous chorus. The couple next to me debated their orders. I heard every voice. I picked up every detail. Every laugh. Every clink of flatware on a dish. It was like I was a superhero blessed (cursed?) with the hearing of a dog.
After sampling everything on our various trays, we conferred and found our reactions to the food pretty similar; our criticisms were all about seasoning and smoke. Neither style of brisket bore much seasoning and only the faintest of smoke rings, and the fatty brisket had almost no caramelized bark.
THE BLOGS: Fed Man Walking visits The Mediterranean Chef Cafe, Burger Mary recommends Jack Allen's Kitchen, Girl Eats World digs Due Forni, and Red Hot Vegans explores the options at the Alamo Drafthouse.
· Little Barrel & Brown's Southern Harmony Marred by Noise, Dishes [Statesman]
· Smoke and Mirrors [Chronicle]
· All Week in Reviews Coverage [EATX]