The Chronicle visits new diner with an old soul Sawyer & Co. this week for the city's sole restaurant review. Critic Brandon Watson focuses on the diner's mixture of nostalgia and classic cooking, which he finds mostly successful, though he'd like to see more innovation:
The dinner, however, pales to brunch. Like a lot of diners, Sawyer truly excels in the early hours, and the patio is the preferred setting. The reclaimed turquoise banquettes, oversized globe fixtures, and AstroTurf are full of populuxe charm. Add afternoon sunshine and the anachronistic friendliness of the service, and you are in Morris Lapidus' Miami.
The pastiche continues on to the plate. Sawyer's Breaux Bridge Benedict ($8.99) follows the same basic template as Scott Boswell's famed version at Stanley, only throwing out the first layer of French bread. It's not needed; the boudin patty forms an affable base to the hollandaise and yolk.