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Week In Reviews

tamalehouseeast.jpgMike Sutter visits the "decidedly informal" Tamale House East, where everything's pretty good ... except the tamales. He recommends the cochinita pibil taco, the pork "lying like a desert sunset in generous nuggets," and the enchiladas verdes, the chicken inside "having a party, getting stewed in chipotle salsa, dressed in soft clothes that moved with the beat." But the tamales? Pork "as dry as yesterday's roast left out for lunch," with masa "crumbled and tasteless but slick nevertheless." [Fed Man Walking]