Week In Reviews

"As neighborhood NIMBYs predicted, most business is generated from the kitchen," writes Rachel Feit of "wildly inconsistent" but briskly busy épicerie, the grocery-lite, counter service cafe that opened in Rosedale early in 2013. Feit "doesn't love" the counter model, with "long and slow" lines, nor the "shriveled and overcooked" steamed mussels and the "miserly" $8 plate of biscuits and gravy. On her good list: the house-made merguez, "puckery" lemon bars and "elegant" barley salad. [Austin Chronicle]