Who better to rule on whether Mexican-style chicken has been detrimentally appropriated by white guy Larry McGuire than another white guy?
Mike "Fed Man Walking" Sutter welcomes you to the "Rotisserie League," wherein the critic-about-town focuses his same-food-different-day efforts on McGuire's new upscale chicken joint Fresa's Chicken Al Carbon, the subject of some local debate concerning authenticity and privilege.
Today's is the the first entry in his "six-round showdown" evaluating Fresa's alongside notably cheaper standbys. He calls Fresa's fowl "as muscled as an Olympic gymnast and every bit as kinetic" and seems deeply pleased with the flavors at play:
The flavor’s more than skin-deep, meaning this chicken goes beyond the grilled-chicken maxim that once the skin’s gone, so’s the fun. Even on the larger knotty cuts like the combined wing and breast, the meat is moist from bone to bite.He also digs Fresa's from-scratch tortillas and the charro beans. El Pollo Rico is slated for his next round.
· Rotisserie League: Fresa's [Fed Man Walking]
· Street Foods Go Upscale, But Is Something Lost In Translation? [KUT]
· All Fresa's Coverage on Eater Austin [-EATX-]