Chef Bryce Gilmore's South Austin small-platestravaganza Barley Swine is on a serious roll this week. First, Pat Sharpe at Texas Monthly named the South Lamar restaurant to her "Where To Eat Now" list alongside Congress and Contigo, and then GQ decides Barley Swine is one of the ten best new restaurants in the country. Don't be turned off by the name, warns writer Brett Martin, which with craft beer and pork fetishism combines "two movements as ubiquitous and smothering as melted cheese on enchiladas."
And at first glance, Barley Swine looks like any number of places that have embraced some blend of small-plate aesthetics, farm-to-table piety, and neo-carnivore swagger. But the food proves just how mature these movements have become.GQ's standout dishes? Pork belly, naturally, and sweetbreads which, with a bone-marrow risotto, "tumble together in a happy frolic of rich and sharp flavors—further proof that trend fatigue is no match for smart, talented cooking."
[Photo: Barley Swine/Facebook]