The Statesman's Matthew Odam makes his way out to East Sixth to review three-month-old Papi Tino's, which charms him with its "charming rustic aesthetic," if not always with its "smallish" Mexican menu. While the century-old building has character and style, the food leaves Odam cold. Overpowering flavors--lime that "tramples" the salpicon de res and a butter sauce "swamps the mild queso panela al horno"--appear to be a real problem. Writes Odam:
From the chips to the ubiquitous avocado and lime and the homogenous vegetables, one gets the feeling at times that Papi Tino's is trying to do too much with too many of the same ingredients, making dishes coming out of the kitchen feel redundant at times.Though Odam writes he doesn't consider any of the dishes to have been failures, he wants to "take a shot of tequila with the place, slap it warmly on the shoulders with both hands and encourage the place to focus up and deliver on its promise."
· Papi Tino's Menu Doesn't Live Up To Sense Of Place [Austin360]
· Papi Tino's [Official]
[Photo: Jarrett C./Yelp]