Statesman critic Mike Sutter reviews Uchiko this week, and gives Tyson Cole's new restaurant four stars (out of five). He seems to have the same problems defining the place as Cole does, though: "Although Uchiko can't be called independent of its crosstown sister [Uchi], neither is it a clone. The dishes exclusive to Uchiko's menu rise (and occasionally fall) on their own."
And oh, hey, look, the Chronicle reviewed Uchiko, too! And Kate Thornberry had a Biblical experience, apparently, quoting the gospel to relay her experience: "The joyous and overflowing abundance of this image from the gospel of Luke is irresistible, and it describes, better than any other words I can think of, what it is like to experience Uchiko." That is some very exciting sushi?
Sutter also stopped by the new Houston import Cafe Express, not too far from Uchiko on North Lamar: "You'll need time to pick from a battery designed to reach every member of your party of six: the eat-anything dad, the dressing-on-the side mom, french fry guy, I-think-I'm-a-vegetarian girl, the friend who thinks everything's too spicy and the gourmand who can't believe you dragged her here." [Statesman]
Virginia Wood thinks the menu at Streat might be a touch too big to consistently produce results: "I'm not ready to write Streat off, but the food preparation has to be reliable for a menu that size to fire on all cylinders. Perhaps less could be more." [Chronicle]
The Fearless Critic braves the "dumbed-down approach" (and ammonia-tinged uni) at Sushi Zushi: "The sourcing of ingredients prizes quantity over quality—true, most American diners do, too. But Austin is rapidly outgrowing those old values, and a new entry like this would do well to follow suit." [FC]
Uchiko. [Photo: Uchiko / Facebook]